ROSE SOCIETY
of WESTERN AUSTRALIA (Inc)

Whilst pruning itself is not a hard task it can be confusing to describe by text so I will keep it brief and suggest that attending the Societies pruning demonstrations is by far the best way to learn the task.

Sharp tools, hand held secateurs or long handled secateurs and pruning saw will make your job so much easier. A good pair of leather gloves and a check that your Tetanus shots are up to date and you are ready to go.

Keep your rose bushes in a young state and you will go a long way to having beautiful blooms. New wood may have a rich plum look to it or a light to mid green look. Basal canes are vital for the frame work of the bush and its health. These canes grow strongly from the base (union) of the rose bush or as the rose bush ages a few centimeters up from the base (union). They nearly always branch out with three or four laterals and depending on the thickness shorten these back to about half the length. Most basal canes should give you two or three seasons before they start loosing their vigor. When this occurs remove the cane from its point of origin. Remove old worn out wood and any twiggy growth and shorten back remaining wood to a good thickness.

Once you have completed pruning it is a good idea to spray your bushes with a suitable winder fungicide eg Lime Sulpher which will help clean up any
mite eggs and spores and will give some control of Mildew spores. Lime Sulpher has no effect on Black Spot spores so if this disease is causing you some problems through the year then use Mancozeb Plus, Bordeaux or a copper based spray which will give you control of these spores. If Aphids are present at pruning time then it is a good idea to add a suitable insecticide to either of the fungicides mentioned. Remember not to use Lime Sulpher and copper based sprays together, however you may use them a week apart.

Mulches can be put down at any time of the year however I prefer to do this after pruning. I spread the mulch to a depth of at least fifty to one hundred millimetres to keep down the weeds. I have not used sheep manure or the like for at least the last six years preferring to use either Pea or Lucerne hay which is very easy to handle and keeps the ground and rose roots at a very even temperature, and allows water and fertilizers to penetrate easily.

Last but not least happy pruning!